Friday, January 2, 2015

Stove Stories by Dorothy Sargent Boudreau

(Editor's note: Growing up, food and politics were main dinner table discussion with food winning out most nights. My mother, father and grandmother were all excellent cooks. My mother, Dorothy Sargent Boudreau, was also a reporter and besides covering hard news, also had a column in the Lawrence Eagle-Tribune called Stove Stories that didn't just give the recipes but the history of the recipe. She believed that the memory of meals added to the flavor. Before her death in 1990 she began the creation of a cookbook based on those columns. I kept the unfinished manuscript and the idea came to me, to publish it as a series of blog. Despite some glitches in scanning where I couldn't get the type face as I wanted it, here are the recipes. If anyone has any comments or would like to add their own stories to the book, send them to me at dlnelson7@hotmail.com and tell me which section you'd like them in.)

“You can give more happiness to more people with less effort by cooking than by any other means.”

So wrote a wise and gentle lady many years ago and how very true!

But a rather caustic Southern gentleman chose to comment both negatively and vehemently on the culinary arts, especially the customs in his part of Dixieland.

“The frying pan is the most dangerous instrument in this state,” he’d say with considerable asperity.

You know whether you’re a kitchen happiness spreader or one who wields a lethal skillet.  Whichever, it’s the rare person who doesn’t have to cook sometime during a lifetime.  Better it be a joy and a delight than a chore and a bore. The choice is yours.

STOVE STORIES is intended to please both the kitchen enthusiast with uncommon and delectable recipes gathered over the years and, hopefully, to whet the appetite and interest of the “I-hate-to-cook” folk and ultimately convert them.

My long love affair with food can be traced to my grandfather, a handsome silver-haired gentleman with an all season tan. He loved his “vittles’” whether his meal was as simple as old fashioned fish cakes with Boston Bake Beans or truly haute cuisine.

Housebound in his final years, grandpa’s interest in food never faltered. He’d help my mother with her menu planning (he lived with us after retiring) and unfailingly compliment her excellent, if plain, meals.
No gourmet cook my mother, her fanciest effort was a Lady Baltimore cake.  But what a way she had with breads (her oatmeal biscuit fairly floated from the oven.) And succulent, fork tender roasts graced our table twice a week.   

The method handed down from my grandmother was to have a roast on Sunday, serve it cold on Monday, then as imaginative left-overs on Tuesday. The cycle began with another roast on Wednesday and so on.   

Saturday was inevitable baked beans, (pea, kidney or yellow eye) accompanied by Boston brown bread, franks or ham, potato salad or cole slaw with custard pie for dessert… as regularly as the sun peeked over the horizon.

All this was fine with grandpa except for his occasional epicurean urges. When these became over-powering he’d send out for such gourmet fare as our small New England town could provide.

While grandpa was still ambulatory, I was frequently his young dinner guest as he and friends explored country inns and city restaurants with total impartiality. Surely he despaired when the prime ribs had been outstanding on one Sabbath excursions and I chose to enthuse about the “warmed up oyster crackers” served with the bisque.

Since those days I’ve developed some very opinionated ideas about food, among them a total aversion to boiled potatoes with two exceptions. But this comes later.

Vegetables, I contend, can be less than tempting unless they’re fresh from the garden.  Serving plain, frozen, canned or store-bought vegetables is a direct line to mealtime boredom.

Now about hors d’oeuvre. Aren’t you tired of both the ubiquitous clam and onion soup dips? Preliminary morsels obviously offer vast opportunity to let yourself go.

Take salads… I’ll mention in my will that person who serves me bite sized salad greens rather than jumbo chunks of this and fat slices of that. Deliver me, too, from limp lettuce or salads swimming in dressing.

Don’t look for recipes for meat loaf, or corn chowder, or similar preparations. Nor will you find Veal Cordon Bleu or Paupiettes of Beef with Olives, for example.  But do try a superb zucchini casserole, a delectably different rice dish, a simply delicious soup and dozens and dozens more.

In other words, I hope you’ll find the majority of recipes new to you, worthy of trying and, above all, deserving of much repetition.  Remember, too, your kitchen is your kingdom, the heart of your home.

THERE ARE SOUPS AND THERE ARE SOUPS

There are soups and there are soups! I mean there's the old chicken version with rice, with noodles with dumplings. There's tomato and vegetable and mushroom and minestrone and so many more.

But have you noticed the trend to more unusual soups that are gaining steadily in popularity both in restaurants and in home kitchens? Not that they're that new necessarily, but they're finding favor and adding a nice note to menu planning.

I refer to soups like carrot, peanut, cheddar cheese, 4-day, and salad (yes, that's right, salad soup) to list but a few. And that's not mention the "split-personality" soups that can be served hot or cold.

I first had cheddar cheese variety in a small soup and salad place opened by a young couple who were among the first to feature this light but nourishing luncheon menu. They also offered delicious home-made breads along with an informal salad bar while three different kinds of soups or chowder bubbled away in kettles on an old black stove. The place won instant approval and has been enlarged twice since its modest beginning.

When I first made this cheddar soup, my daughter, Donna-Lane, raved about it, took the recipe, went home and made a kettle full. A friend, whose office is in her home, makes it in double batches for an appetizing and easy luncheon. She likes with croutons. I like sauteed mushrooms added and rice crackers to munch with it.

My particular joy is the "salad soup" mentioned earlier. Haven't you found that you had a generous quantity of dressed salad left over and staring at you, the greens turning limp before your eyes, the croutons soggy? This is no reflection on your salad but on you overestimating the quantity needed.

Now in these days of spiraling food costs, I'm reluctant to waste a crumb, never mind a crust, or even worse a lettuce leave. Read on, for a most delicious way to salvage perfectly good and costly ingredients.

Leslie, a one-time neighbor, was a bride and a fine cook. We often exchanged recipes and the results and she was particularly delighted to receive the salad soup.

Carrot soup became a specialty of my cousin Grace and its deliciously different. I had a similar version in a very fine restaurant, but the texture was grainy. Hers is creamy smooth and with a salad and hot rolls it makes a lovely luncheon.

I love peanut soup and loathe pea soup. The latter probably puts me in the minority for a good old fashioned pea soup made with the essence of a ham bone is high on the popularity poll, especially with men. You won't find a recipe for it here, but you'll find directions for the peanut preparation.

If you really want to get exotic there's a pink strawberry soup recipe that I begged from a bare acquaintance. She said it came from a famous restaurant and I believe it! This is served cold only and is sensational on a hot summer day or night.

Saving best for last in my opinion, at least, I simply adore the cold cherry soup. It's from a famous Boston restaurant and was published in a national gourmet magazine some years ago. Again, Cousin Grace was the first to make this and earned plaudits.

So let's proceed with soups, there are more than I've mentioned.


CREAM OF BROCCOLI SOUP

A hot or cold soup entry, it's a pretty soup, appetizing and satisfying!
  • 1 bunch broccoli
  • 2 stalks celery
  • 1 small onion
  • 3 cups chicken broth
  • 1 cup cream
  • pinch of dry mustard
  • 2 drops of Tabasco
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Wash and trim the broccoli and put in heavy sauce pan. Add the celery and onion, both finely sliced or diced. Add the 3 cups of chicken broth and simmer until the broccoli is just tender. Put this mixture into blender and blend until smooth. Return to sauce pan, add 1 cup cream. Heat slowly, but do NOT boil. Season.

To serve hot add mushroom slices to each cup or served chilled with sprinklings of finely chopped chervil and chives.

4-DAY VEGETABLE SOUP

There's something comforting about a hearty soup! And, contrary to some opinions, meatless soups
can be hearty and satisfying. And this one in particular is delicious the first day and what you make it on the second and third days.
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cups cooked cabbage, finely chopped
  • 2 carrots, shredded
  • 3 whole mushrooms, finely chopped
  • 1 small turnip, finely diced
  • 3 or 4 leaves spinach
  • 1 medium zucchini, finely diced
  • 1 small tomato, chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • Few leaves of rosemary
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
Combine in a 3 quart sauce pan, cover with water and cook over very low heat until comes to a boil.

Then simmer for 1 1/2 hours and serve piping hot with pumpernickel.

You'll have about 8 cups.

A day or two later use your imagination, maybe add some chick peas, some green beans, rice.

Later in the week, add some more tomatoes, a few peas, broccoli or whatever suits your fancy.

Replenish the stock with chicken broth, or beef, if you'd rather.

What a soup kettle you'll have!


 CREAM OF PEANUT SOUP

One of my very favorite soups, this is a conversation piece. The flavor is haunting, elusive and
delicious. This recipe will serve four or two if you like it as much as I do.
  • 1 tbsp. butter 1 tbsp. flour
  • 1/2 cup smooth peanut butter
  • 2 cups milk
  • 1/4 tsp. salt
  • 1/4 cup sherry
  • Freshly ground pepper to taste
  • Paprika
Melt butter in heavy soup kettle over low heat, blend in flour and remove from heat.

Blend in peanut butter.

Scald milk (heat to just boiling point) and add gradually, stirring constantly.

Return mixture to low heat, stirring until its steaming hot, but NOT boiling.

Add sherry and salt.

Serve at once, with a dusting of paprika and freshly ground pepper.

Put a few peanuts in each cup.

Love it! Love it!


BAKED FISH CHOWDER

This is in no way your traditional New England fish chowder, but it is easy and delicious. I've tried
adding salt pork to the original recipe given me. It seems to make this chowder even better.

Really, I don't remember which aunt contributed this many years ago, but I do know it's a favorite with family and friends.
  • 1/4 lb. at least of salt pork
  • 2 lbs of haddock or cod fillets
  • 2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
  • Several  chopped celery leaves
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1/2 cup butter
  • 1/4 dried dill seed
  • 1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper
  • 1/2 cup Vermouth
  • 3 cups boiling water
  • 3 cups light cream
Bake the fish until flaky.

Add all ingredients to 3-quart sauce pan with 3 cups boiling water.

Simmer until vegetables are done.

Add Vermouth and 3 cups light cream. (Note: there's chopped parsley in the photo)


 COLD CHERRY SOUP

  • 2 one-pound cans pitted tart cherries
  • Juice from a third can of cherries
  • 1 cherry can of water
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 6 whole gloves
  • 6 allspice berries
  • 1 lemon slived
  • 1 two-inch cinnamon stick
  • Dash of salt
  • 1 tbsp. flour
  • 2 cups light cream
  • 1/2 bottle white whine such as Medoc
In a kettle combine the two 1-pound cans of cherries, the juice from the third can, 1 cherry can water, the sugar, cloves, allspice, sliced lemon, cinnamon and salt.

Bring to a boil.

Blend 1 tbsp. smoothly into the 3 cups light cream and stir the mixture into the cherry combination.

Add the 1/2 bottle white wine and bring to a boil stirring constantly.

Remove from heat and chill thorough.

Serve with 1 tbsp. whipped cream on each serving.

Will keep for 2 weeks refrigerated.

Makes 12 small servings.

 STOCKPOT SOUP

I had an uncle with whom I had great rapport although we argued constantly (but without rancor) at
the drop of a word, any word.

Financially very comfortable he was the ultimate in contradiction. He never buttoned any sweater he ever owned. The elbows might be worn but the buttonholes were as they came from the men's shop.

Three cups of tea from one teabag was his cardinal rule but he'd pay $400 for a postage stamp without blinking an eye. He'd have loved the economical way with leftovers.

Keep a soup "stockpot" in your refrigerator by pouring in a suitable kettle all juice from vegetables, canned, fresh or froze. Also add any leftover bits of meats and vegetables. At the end of the week simmer the stock with either a packet of dry soup mix or add fresh vegetables any kind of cooked pasta or whatever suits your fancy. An easy meal with a salad and French bread of hot rolls.


SALAD (SPRING) SOUP

This must be the most ingenious leftover ever devised. It is always different and always delicious.
Don't tell your family you're serving them the remains of yesterday's salad or that's why those little leftovers have vanished from the refrigerator. If they insist on knowing what it is, tell them it's "Spring Soup."
  • 1 1/2 cups green salad more or less with dressing remaining in bowl
  • Lettuce leaves (5 or 6 large)
  • 1/2 to 2 cups leftover cooked vegetables
  • 2 to 3 tbp. vegetable oil
  • 1 to3 cans chicken broth or stock
  • Salt
  • Freshly ground pepper
  • 2 drops Tabasco
Heat oil in a heavy sauce pan and add leftover salad and vegetables.

Saute over medium heat 5 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally until lettuce is wilted.

Pour this mixture into a blender with some of the chicken broth and puree thoroughly. Return to the broth remaining in the sauce pan and bring to moderate boil.

Add, salt, pepper and Tabasco.

Serve with croutons if desired.

The measurements are flexible and dictated by the amount of ingredients you have on hand.

GRACE'S CARROT SOUP

Even people who don't like carrots like this.
  • 1-1/2 cups carrots, cut up, cooked
  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 1/2 cup light cream
  • 1 cup chicken broth
  • Dash nutmeg
  • Dash cinnamon
  • 1 tbsp. brown sugar
  • Salt and pepper to taste
Blend carrots, broth, spices. Heat. Add cream and milk and simmer. Do NOT boil.


CHEDDAR CHEESE SOUP

Get out the soup kettle and prepare to see your reputation soar to new heights. The first hint of autumn
absolutely dictates this soup, although I actually make it all year round. It's that good.
  • 1 large onion
  • 2 tbsp. butter
  • 1 tbsp. flour
  • 1/2 cup chicken stock (or beef)
  • 4 cups milk
  • 1/4 SHARP cheddar cheese
  • 1/8 tsp. dry mustard
  • 1/8 tsp. freshly ground pepper
  • 1/4 tsp. salt
  • Paprika
  • Worcestershire sauce
  • Sauteed mushrooms (optional)
Chop the onion medium fine and saute in butter in a heavy kettle over low heat. Don't let them brown.

Sprinkle with flour, stir in a smooth paste.

Gradually stir in chicken (or beef) broth.

Add milk slowly, stirring  constantly until thickened.

You can use a double boiler to be safer if you'd prefer.

Grate in SHARP cheddar cheese, add dry mustard, stir constantly.

Heat until cheese melts and remove from the stove at once.

Season with salt, pepper, paprika and two or three stops of Worcestershire.

Add sauteed mushrooms if you wish.

Six servings. you'll wish you'd doubled it.


PINK STRAWBERRY SOUP

Pretty as a picture, this is a party soup or for romantic dinners for two. Call it a glamorous soup, call it
exotic, call it elegant.
  • 1 pound fresh ripe strawberries
  • 4 cups Port
  • 1 1/4 cups water
  • 1 cup sugar
  • Pinch of salt
  • 3 tbsp. arrowroot
Hull and wash strawberries and put in a saucepan with 4 cups Port and one cup of water.

Bring to a boil.

Mix the arrowroot with with 1/4 cup water and stir into the hot soup.

Reheat and stir until it thickens.

Serve the soup chilled and topped with a small dollop of whipped cream and/or a sprinkle of chopped walnuts.

Serves six to 10 depending on the role it plays in your menu.



Thursday, January 1, 2015

BEATIC BEVERAGES

This chapter is not for teetotalers, although even the most conservative may well have an occasion to serve an alcoholic beverage, or two or there. Take a daughter's wedding for example.

Indeed, the beatific beverages are geared to those who like the unusual--just about anyone can make a decent martini, or Manhattan or whiskey sour, can't they?

Almost anyone can make a passing-good Bloody Mary, but the recipe for that drink herein contained, far surpasses any I've ever had. And there have been many imbibers at my brunches who agree and tote the recipe home. So it's not an unusual drink, but one that is superior.

Now about cocktail parties, did you ever think of substituting a really superb Richmond punch and come right out and call it a punch party? The first time I did this, there were 75 people gathered, and it was absolutely the best party we ever had. The guests were given to song backed by a talented guest with a large repertoire at our small electric organ. It was a mellow group that arrived a bit late at the club dance.

Another time, my former husband volunteered me for making this libation for the wedding of a good friend's daughter. My kitchen reeked for fumes, for I made 10 batches--it was a large wedding. The friend rewarded me with a sand wedge, which helped by golf game no end. Fair enough, I thought!

Again, I volunteered to make umpteen batches for our class reunion. We kept looking younger and younger after each trip to the punch bowl! A smashing success, that reunion.

Actually every recipe is worthy of your efforts when the occasion demands. I've just emphasized punch as an attractive alternative to the martini/Manhattan routine.

There are, as you know, hot and cold weather drinks. Can't you see yourself swinging lazily in a hammock on a hot summer day, book in hand, and a frosty pitcher of Sangria at the ready. Or take a snowy, gusty cold winter's night, a blazing fir and a hot buttered rum right next to the backgammon table? That's what I mean by seasonal drinks.

So let's start with a summer drink . . .  Sangria!


SANGRIA

If you've been buying bottled Sangria, try this recipe. You'll think you've discovered a new drink. It's
fruitier, zingier and infinitely more refreshing. It's big at barbecues, just to name one place it shines. I'd tell you where it comes from, if I could remember, which I can't.

Combine 3/4 cup of sugar and 1/3 cup water in sauce pan and bring to a boil over moderately low heat, stirring and washing down any sugar crystals that cling to the sides of the pan. A brush dipped in cold water is helpful and keep at it until all the sugar is dissolved.

Remove the pan from the heat and add thinly sliced 2 oranges, 1 lemon, 1 lime and 3 cloves. Let the fruit macerate in the syrup for 12 hours.

At your leisure, pour the fruit mixture into a large picture, add 2 bottles of dry red wine and chill for at least four hours.

When ready to serve, stir the mixture well and pour into 8-ounce highball glasses, each partially filled with ice cubes. Be sure there is a slice or two of fruit in each glass. Yields about two quarts.


SCOTCH CLOUD

Maybe this should have gone in the SWEET TOOTH chapter because it's actually a dessert, but then again, is has more scotch whiskey in it than you'd put in a glass on the rocks. I don't even like scotch but consumed this with gusto when it was first served to me. The hostess said it was a contest winner somewhat deservedly so. She also said you could could make it with rum or brandy just as well. And you can!
  • 1/2 cup scotch whiskey, rum or brandy
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • 1 cup honey
  • Nutmeg, freshly grated
  • Sliced almonds
Beat the heavy cream at high speed until it holds firm peaks. In a second bowl combine the honey with your choice of liquor. Fold this mixture into the whip cream and beat it together on low speed. Blend well. Divide among 8 glasses (sherbet, wine or whiskey sour). Cover and refrigerate several hours at a minimum. When ready to serve, sprinkle with nutmeg and scatter sliced almonds on top. Serves 6 to 8. And a spoon is required.


KITCHEN KAHLUA

I love Kahlua. I love Black Russians, which you can't have without Kahlua. But I often balk at the price. My son alternated between calling me "chintzy" and "extravagant" dependent on my mood I'm in, because obviously I can't be both at the same time. "It's all a matter of priorities," I sniff whenever such a discussion occurs. Come be "chintzy" with me . . . it's delicious!
  • 4 cups water
  • 3 cups sugar
  • 12 tsp. instant coffee
  • 2-3 cups vodka ( I use 3)
  • 3 tsp. vanilla extract
Bring water to boil, add sugar and instant coffee. Mix well and simmer for two hours. When cold, add vodka and vanilla. This can be used immediately (and often is) but the flavor improves with age. I
make two batches at a time -- one for sampling, one for aging!


HOT RUM PUNCH

This is a cold weather punch to warm one's innards. I think it originated in Maine and I could be wrong, but I first had it in Massachusetts and that's for sure. It's grand for the holiday season and perks up Open Houses in the merriest way! I altered the recipe as given to me by increasing the butter and the lemon and orange juice. Otherwise it is the same.

IMPORTANT to choose a metal punch bowl for the hot water could shatter one made of glass. So let's get on . . .

Pour two/fifth black rum into the metal punch bowl, add the juice of one lemon and one orange. Put one pound of honey and one quarter pound of butter in a sauce pan and simmer until the butter is melted. Add to the punch bowl, add one quart of boiling water and mix well. Taste and add more water if desired. Sprinkle with freshly grated nutmeg and serve. You're on your own in devising a way to keep if pleasantly warm. I use Sterno under a stand that holds the punch bowl. Found it in a garage sale. But the better stores will have the proper punch warming equipment.


RICHMOND PUNCH

I've said more than enough about this punch already but one last word--it's really special, smooth as velvet and potent. But you can control the latter by increasing the amount of soda you add. Taste if first before tampering with the recipe tho.
  • 1 qt. strong Oolong tea
  • 1 qt. Jamaican dark rum
  • 1 qt. port wine
  • 1 qt. brandy
  • 1/2 pint orange Curacao or triple sec
  • Juice of 12 medium-size lemons
  • 3 cups granulated sugar
To the tea while it is hot add sugar and lemon juice. Mix thoroughly and strain through a cotton cloth. When cool, add brandy, rum, port, and Curacao. Pour into empty liquor bottles. When ready to serve, pour in punch bowl and add one quarter soda or carbonated water for each quart of punch. Serve in a large bowl with a block of ice. Orange slices stuck with cloves are a nice garnish.


MULLED CIDER

For cold weather and frosty autumn evenings through frigid winter nights. Use this in the Apple Velvet
cocktail (next). Call it double duty cider.

In a heavy sauce pan mix together two quarts apple cider, 1/2 cup brown sugar. Add to this a spice bag containing 1 tsp. each of whole allspice, whole cloves, and a cracked cinnamon stick. Now simmer the mixture for 20 minutes. Remove the spice bag, bottle, cool and refrigerate. Delicious hot of cold or add to Apple Velvet Cocktail.



APPLE VELVET COCKTAIL

Combine 1 1/2 oz. of applejack with three oz. of your cold mulled cider, a teaspoon of unbeaten egg white and a generous pinch of nutmeg. Crack and add two ice cubes, shake vigorously and strain into a whiskey sour glass. Serves one. Better make more. You'll be glad you did!


BLOODY MARY

There's a little country inn on the North Shore which doesn't have a liquor license, but which had no
objection to totting your own. In fact, they'll be delighted to serve you the fixings for a Bloody Mary and state so on their menu.

Well, Lillian I, you must remember her by now, love to go there for Sunday brunch.

She's is a marvelous story teller and regales her Boston friends with tales of brunching away while reaching into a paper bag for the bottle of Bloody Marys.

About the Inn. Fish so fresh it stopped only minutes on its way from sea to skillet.

This is the Bloody Mary we especially enjoy!

For each drink, half fill a cocktail shaker with crushed ice and pour over it 1 jigger of vodka, 2 jiggers tomato juice, 1/3 jigger lemon juice, a dash of Worcestershire sauce, a pinch of celery salt and salt and pepper to taste. Shake the mixture well and strain into a glass.

This makes only one drink, of course. We make much more for the paper bag brunch!

P.S. I add two drops of Tabasco. Lillian doesn't. She doesn't know I do either.


MAY AND JEANNE'S PUNCH

Dolores, a former co-worker (those were my days in advertising) came bubbling in one day to tell of a delightful party and a delicious punch. Come to think of it, there was much talk about food and recipes in the office. Simplicity itself and totally different from the many of the less inspired punches encountered at parties, This is a lighter potion than many versions and very pretty too.
  • 1 large can of Hawaiian fruit punch (chilled)
  • 1 large can of sweetened pineapple juice
  • Vodka to suit the taste
  • Vanilla ice cream
Assemble all ingredients in a chilled punch bowl, hopefully with an ice ring in which you've embedded a pretty fruit design) and mix well. At the last minute float scoops of vanilla ice cream in the punch,which, by the way, comes out a heavenly pink color, studded with the white ice cream scoops. Allow three four-oz. serving per guest at the very minimum and order your ingredients in quantities so determined. Better plan more because this is delicious. Refrigerate any leftover punch, which is an unlikely eventuality.


HOT BUTTERED RUM

Hot buttered rum for cold wintry nights! And this recipe is a winner. More time consuming than many but absolutely superb. Came from some restaurant somewhere, according to Olive, who first introduced me to this extra special version of an old favorite. This is the cup that cheers. And cheers and cheer!

Make a rum butter by creaming together two cups of  soft butter 4 1/2 cups brown sugar, 1 1/2 cups honey 1/4 rum extract (I use real room not extract), 2 tbsp. grated nutmeg, 2 tsps. cinnamon, i tsp. ground cloves. You should have approximately 1 quart.

Scald a 10 oz. mug and for each drink stir in 1/4 cup of rum butter and 1/4 cup boiling water until the butter is melted. Now stir in 1 1/2 oz. dark rum and fill the mug with boiling water. Sip and enjoy!