SMATTERING: FISH, FOWL & MEAT

THIS is the "smattering" chapter meaning, according to one dictionary definition, "A little bit or a few."

So there's chat about chicken, mentions of meat, and very small talk about fish.

Probably anyone who has ever stood at a stove or read a recipe has a chicken preparation preference. The fowl of many faces lends itself to innumerable methods, but I'm including only a chosen few. All simply delicious and deliciously simple.

The sweet n' sour Sullivan version came from a young man and former associates who claimed it played a prominent part in his courtship of the girl he married.

A transplanted Nebraskan, Betty, first tole me about "chicken fried steak" a baffling name for there's nary a hint of chicken here. It's another way with cube steak and what a delicious difference.

In all candor, I'd rather eat fish out than in, but in restaurant or home, only it's straight from the lake, sea or stream, whichever habitat applies. Occasionally, I'll succumb to an at-home yearning for the two recipes you'll come to later. Or I might make a seafood newburg or creamed finnan haddie, neither of which you'll find here as they lay no claim to being at all uncommon.

But back to the mention of eating fish out which, with the exception of lobster or shrimp, I order only in a seafood restaurant. Which brings to mind a very favorite aunt who invariably ordered fish in a steak restaurant, chicken in a seafood restaurant and never, but never selected the specialty of any restaurant or any kindred entree either! And there's a friend who once sat studying an elaborate menu featuring French cuisine and was heard to murmur, "Oh, what I'd give for a dish of chili."

And speaking of eating out, don't you find that the old-fashioned dining at your favorite restaurant, patronizing a fast-food emporium, lunch at your golf or tennis club, or substituting brunch for the former hearty meal and opting for a snack supper? It seems this is more the Sunday style today.

One of our favorite brunch offering, by the way, for either family or guests, doesn't really need a recipe. My folks called scrambled eggs and potatoes and then I ran across in some forgotten magazine where it was described as a German breakfast. it's so simple . . .so good!

Just fry some bacon until crisp, remove from the skillet and reserve only enough fat to saute some diced onion and green pepper. When they're almost done, added cubed cold, cooked potatoes and fry until heated through and golden. Now add some beaten eggs (slathered, peppered and Tabascoed) and gently scramble the whole thing. Crumble the reserve crisp bacon over the top and serve to hungry brunchers. They'll devour this so be sure and make enough.

The rest of the menu is up to you, but as I said before, those sauteed cherry tomatoes are a great go-along .

Let's get along with this smattering chapter.

J'S SHERRIED CHICKEN

Son J enjoys cooking and has since I, for no imaginable reason, gave this macho little boy a Betty Crocker cooking set. Maybe it was because on rainy days he was always in the kitchen watching, asking and eating.

Once he ran his finger into the pea sheller which provided some excitement, not to mention considerable pain before it was extracted. There's no problem selecting gifts for this adult son: a deluxe cutting board, a Svensk knife, gourmet coffee and accompanying pots, pans, gadgets, soup tureen for his super onion soup and on and on. He originated his sherried chicken for another bachelor friend and their dates with such success that it became a company dish standby,

1 1/2 pounds boneless chicken cut into chunks.

Brown in butter and season with celery salt, freshly ground pepper and seasoned salt.

Cook over low flame until tender to the fork and add one cup sherry. simmer until wine has evaporated.

 Cover with slices of shredded mozzarella and run under the broiler to melt the cheese.

J serves this to much acclaim with either wild rice or rice pilaf and whatever vegetable suits his fancy, or possibly a salad replacing the legume.

I, who am not really enamored of chicken, like all the chicken recipes herein and couldn't choose a favorite among the three.

 SULLIVAN'S SWEET N' SOUR CHICKEN

Tom was a much younger associate I mentioned in another chapter and we had many laughs in his bachelor days. My granddaughter, Llara, was mad about him and his way with Winnie-the-Pooh, which he read to her often. They also had a standing joke about going to Maine, the origin of which escaped me. I call this elegant eating!

• 1 medium-sized jar of apricot preserves
• 1 bottle of WISH BONE Russian dressing
• Chicken parts ( I like small drumsticks, but Tom prefers quarters. Make your own choice)

I'd buy a dozen or so small drumsticks. Tom would quarter a fair-sized chicken, whatever you want enough chicken to serve four.

Mix the apricot preserves and the Russian dressing in a large bowl.

Immerse the chicken parts to assure they are well covered.

Place in a lightly greased baking pan and bake in a preheated (325°) oven for 80 to 90 minutes or until tender to the fork.

SYLVIA'S EAST INDIAN BASTE

I never met the lady who introduced this recipe to a former newspaper associate but was told she was from Chile, was in international banking, had two sons and an exquisite way with anything she touched. The aroma of this dish in the cooking process is tantalizing!  

• 1 can (1 lb. 13 oz.) cling peaches halves
• 1/4 cup butter or margarine
• 1 tsp. curry powder
• 1 tbsp instant minced onion
• 2 tbsp. wine vinegar
• Half a chicken per person

Drain peaches saving 1/4 cup syrup.

Melt butter in sauce pan.

Add curry and simmer 5 minutes.

Remove from heat.

Stir in onions, vinegar and reserve syrup.

Baste chicken halves with sauce. Put  peach halves with with sauce aside.

Place chicken in broiler pan lined with aluminum wrap.

Bake in 400° oven 1 hour basting and turning ever 15 minutes.

Add peach halves, baste with sauce and bake 10 minutes longer.

Serves four.

YMMMMM-mmm-mmmm!

PORK CHOPS WITH CREAM

Pork, it seems to me, is rib-sticking meat, the kind you need to sustain New Englanders besieged by frosty

autumns and frigid winters. Applies to any cold parts of the country, of course. This is so easy and so good.

• 2 packages (about 3 lbs) of fairly thick pork tenderloin cut into 1 +72 inch cubes.
• 1 pint light cream
• Salt and pepper to taste

Season tenderloin and fry slowly but thoroughly over low flame in a lightly greased large skillet.

Drain most of the accumulated fat and add the cream.

Cook over low heat, covered for another 35-45 minutes.

You'll find a delicious gravy and toothsome tenderloins.

How about baked potatoes, buttered broccoli and apple sauce with this?

RUTH'S PORK CHOP PLATE

It was a blue Monday, rainy, cold, totally dismal, and I arrived home tired and chilled from a difficult day.

Hardly had closed the door when there was a light knock.

That was my good neighbor Ruth standing there with a plate laden with vittles of heavenly aroma.

"Thought you might enjoy this," said she proffering plate. And a blue Monday turned into a day I still remember with pleasure and gratitude for the thoughtfulness of a gracious lady.

This is particularly great for those among us who live alone and come home to prepare our own dinners. It can be readied the day before, refrigerated and popped into the oven as soon as you get home. Then a delicious dinner is ready in an hour. Not really a recipe, more like directions and Ruth told it this way.

Brown the pork chops (as many as you need). In fact, tailor quantities her to the number being served whether one or several.

Parboil fresh carrots, left whole if small or quartered or halved if larger.

Place carrots in a roaster bag with a jar of small onions, a can of sauerkraut and some small canned Irish potatoes. Put chops on top, seal bag (be sure and punch holes in top) and bake one hour at 350°.

Isn't that simple? And so good.

CHICKEN FRIED STEAK

Betty is my good friend from Nebraska who doesn't particularly enjoy a stint in the kitchen but when she

does turn her hand to the stove the results are always delicious. This way with cubed steak is common in her home area, Betty said, but was totally unknown to me.

After trying and loving it, I saw it on a menu in a Maine restaurant and described as "Ted's (the chef's) original recipe." Bet that would be news to a lot of Nebraskans, who've been enjoying it for decades, probably years and years before Ted first donned his chef's hat.

Betty relayed the recipe this way.

Take four pieces of cubed steak (she insists these be at room temperature) before proceeding as follows.

Beat well two large-sized eggs or three medium.

Roll out 15 or so saltines seasoning with sale and pepper. (You can used prepared crumbs, the Italian type if you wish).

Dip the steaks into the beaten eggs and roll in crumbs.

Fry to your preferred doneness: rare, medium, well.

Betty serves this with mashed potato, a green vegetable and a salad.

It's truly delicious as the crumbs keep the steak juice in and the texture interesting.

BAKED VEAL AND WATER CHESTNUTS

This probably could as properly have been in the casserole chapter, but it is such an elegant meat dish, that you're going to find it in "Smatterings" anyway. And it's getting a little different treatment in that ingredients aren't itemized. Instead, we'll go by steps. Whatever . . .it's delectable!

STEP ONE--Melt 1/2 stick butter in a heavy skillet and stir in two pounds boneless veal, cut into one-inch cubes. Brown the veal on all sides.

Stir in 1 finely chopped medium onion, 1 crushed garlic clove and cook until the onion is golden. Season with this 1 tsp. salt, 1/4 tsp. pepper, a dash of cayenne and transfer to a greased two-quart casserole.

STEP TWO--In the same skillet saute 1 lb. of fresh mushrooms, cleaned and quartered if larger than button size and 1/2 stick of butter. Saute until done, drain and stir the mushrooms into the casserole with the veal mixture. Add 1 cup beef bouillon, two five-ounce cans of water chestnuts, drained and sliced, a dash of nutmeg and 1 bay leaf. Cover the casserole and bake in a moderately hot preheated 375° 1-1 1/2 hours or until the veal is tender.

STEP 3--Now stir in two cups of heavy cream and 1/4 cup chopped parsley and cook the mixture uncovered for another 15 minutes. Add 3/4 cup Cognac and reheat to previous temperature. Isn't that a delicious though for special company?

The family will appreciate it too, of course!

CORBIE'S SUPPER SCRAMBLE

I've mentioned Corbie before. She was with us during my late teen years and we had some hilarious times

despite the difference in ages. She shared the family's shock when I eloped but as these things often go, all was forgiven.

Two years later mother volunteered to take over the care of my grandmother so Corbie could be free to spend a week with when I came home with my first born. Corbie left reluctantly after her seven-day stay, declaring I was the most nervous mother (and not too bright) she'd ever seen in her years and with fervent hopes for the baby's survival. She left behind this easy way for a harried mother to feed a hungry husband.

• 1 lb. chopped sirloin
• 1 lb. fresh mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
• 1 medium onion, sliced
• Salt, pepper, Tabasco

Saute mushrooms and onions and push to back of a large fry pan.

Crumble chopped mean and fry slowly.

When all the pink has disappeared scramble all the ingredients together. Always had baked potatoes and buttered carrots with this.

By the way, you'll find a much enhanced carrot taste if you cut them in small sticks before steaming preferably, or boiling if you haven't a steamer.

LILLIAN'S FISH

Lillian is a friend of more years that we're going to admit. We were co-workers long ago and even now can conjure up episodes that leave us limp with laughing.

Neither of us has the slightest sense of direction and once went eighty miles out of our way on a trip to visit a mutual friend in Connecticut. Heading south, we suddenly found ourselves north bound and to this date can't imagine how it happened. Neither can the friend we visited.

Lillian doesn't own as cookbook, sort of wings it at the stove and wings it very well. Here is her way with fish.

• 1 lb. haddock filets
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• Tabasco
• Salt and pepper
• Seasoned crumb.

Put haddock filets in a lightly greased shallow baking dish.

Coat filets with mayonnaise in which you've added Tabasco.

Top with seasoned crumbs, salt and pepper.

Dot with butter.

Bake in a 350° oven for 10 minutes.

Check to see if the fish is opaque and flakes easily. If not, return to oven but keep a watchful eye.

When fish has attained your desired doneness (we both like fish cooked a trifle longer than some) run under broiler very briefly to acquire a nice light golden color.

Garnish with lemon which you've dusted with paprika and springs of parsley.

Don't you always serve beets with fish? Serve with a potato of your choice, ours is baked.

BAKED FRESH SCROD*

This doesn't have to be schrod and it doesn't have to have mushrooms. It's delicious just the way it is but it has the advantage of flexibility. If schrod isn't available the day you shop for this ask your fishmonger for a suitable substitute. But do try it -- so elegant. A family favorite and guests ask for the recipe.

• 2 lbs. schrod filets, divided into serving portions
• 1/3 cup butter or margarine
• 2 1/2 tbsp. lemon juice
• 2 tsp. minced onions
• 1/2 tsp. chopped parsley, fresh or dehydrated
• Salt and pepper and if desired paprika
• 6 oz. fresh mushrooms sliced (stems and caps)
• 2 tbsp. butter or margarine

In a small pan melt butter.

Add lemon juice, minced onion and parsley.

Pour a small amount in a 9x13 inch pan.

Arrange filets in pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Pour remaining butter sauce over the fish, sprinkle with paprika.

Bake in pre-heated 375° for 15-20 minutes, depending on thickness of filets or until the fish flakes easily.

Meanwhile, saute mushrooms in remaining butter until slightly soft. Serve mushrooms over fish with pan juices.

Serves 5-6.

*Scrod or schrod is  any young cod, haddock or whitefish and is a typical New England name.

VEGETABLES check for more

I'm probably a borderline vegetarian. There's not one I don't like and that includes parsnips, that much maligned root. Which brings to mind a friend whose aversion to the parsnip in any form causes her to overreact, I say.

I made a buttery, creamy parsnip chowder one cold and snowy afternoon and when Pat appeared at the door shivering with cold I welcomed her warmly and suggested she stay for a light supper, mentioning the parsnip chowder, green salad, etc. Such disdain, such nose wriggling.

"Parsnips, I hate parsnips, you know that!" And indeed I had quite forgotten. She settled for a grilled cheese sandwich. I ate the chowder. It was scrumptious.

But to get back to other vegetables, I grew up looking forward to summers with corn, asparagus, green beans, peas, summer squash, tiny new new potatoes redolent of the earth all prepared on the stove within minutes of being picked. Not to mention beets, Swiss chard, spinach, carrots, peppers and on and on.

Too young was I to appreciate the fruits of my father's efforts for his idea of total relaxation was his weekend garden. And it took considerable family pressure to pry him away for weekends anywhere else.

Those were the days of the large Sunday dinner in all seasons. In summer, tho', this late afternoon meal was frequently followed by an evening of flaky, hot "raised biscuit" with pats and pats of butter to go along with a great white bowl swimming with strawberries and cream. The berries from the lower garden strawberry patch, of course.

Such garden fresh fruits and vegetables are hard to come by for many folk (as they are for me now). Next best is the produce from the proliferating farmers' markets, the long familiar roadside stands, or best of all, friends' gardens.

But you and I are going to think about creative ways with vegetables that may make not the remotest claim to garden freshness as we know it.

If I were to award four stars in this chapter for simple preparation and delicious regulars, I'd be torn between Mary's way with eggplant and the ethereal onions.

One more thought. It's about sprouts, those delectable early shoots of fresh young vegetables, so nutrition laden and so easy to grow in your own kitchen with no muss or fuss. They can be eaten as it, roasted, baked, boiled, steamed for fried and in salads, sandwiches, soups. There's a recipe using sprouts here and another in the salad section.

So let's begin with the very simplistic eggplant a la Mary.

MARY'S EGGPLANT

Frankly, I thought my eggplant recipe was THE BEST until I tasted Mary's even simpler way. I used to

slice an eggplant, dip it in butter, then crumbs, drizzle more butter on top, salt and pepper the slices and bake it in a 350° oven. And it is good! But Mary, my ex-roommate did it better.

"What are you going to do with that eggplant in the refrigerator?" she asked on a recent visit? So I told her about my usual way with the purple globe.

"Like to try my way?" she asked and I did.

And all Mary did was to slice the eggplant about 3/4 of an inch thick, put it in a larger skillet where olive oil had been heating, salted, peppered and fried the slices. They were delicious and I asked why anything so simple was so good."

"It's the olive oil," she smiled. Or did she smirk? Whatever, it's the only way to go.

CORBIE'S POT ONIONS

Corbie was my grandmother's nurse for nine years and she loved food as much as she feared snakes.

I've heard her alert an entire neighborhood with blood curdling screams when she chanced on a six-inch garter snake and I've seen her consume six strawberry shortcakes with barely a pause between forkfuls.

This is her way with potatoes and onions, which I first through was less than appetizing and found to be so good that she and I demolished a generous bowlful.

Boil at least six medium potatoes (or 8, 10, or 12 little new potatoes is they're available) in their skins.

Peel while still warm and put in a pre-warmed bowl of casserole or whatever and literally slather with butter.

Add a good quantity of raw chopped red onion which you have at the ready. Salt and pepper
and devour.

ETHEREAL ONIONS

When I first encountered these super, super onions thy were diced, which is nice but a lot of work.

After begging the recipe, I decided to slice instead of dice. Easier and just as good.

Slice or dice ten smallish onions and saute gently until straw colored but NOT browned.

In a bowl combine 2 cups milk, 4 eggs beaten, 2 tsp. salt, 1/4 tsp. grated nutmeg, 1/8 tsp. finely ground black pepper. Stir in the onions and pour the mixture into a buttered 2 quart baking dish.

Set baking dish in a pan and fill the latter with enough hot water to reach halfway up the sides. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (359°) for 45 minutes. Stand back for recipe requests.

BUTTERED CHERRY TOMATOES

These have been a must for every Sunday brunch I've ever had. Not that they're limited to this,

actually they're a colorful and tasty addition to many meals. Unfailing popular, too.

• Cherry tomatoes (4-5 per serving)
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 2 tbsp. finely diced onion.

Put enough butter in skillet to prevent sticking, add tomatoes, finely diced onion, salt and pepper.

Cook over low heat, shaking pan often, and saute until tomatoes are heated through and their skins begin to crack.

Simple, simple, simply delicious.

PARSNIP PACKETS

This was an innovation in the parsnip world, I thought. Knowing this vegetable doesn't rank in

popularity with many others, there are still parsnip lovers out there (despite Pat, whose aversion is described elsewhere). Now for those who share my partiality for the parsnips.

Cut four 12x8 pieces of foil. Put 1 tbsp. butter, cut into bits in the center of each.

Add to each packet one parsnip, peeled and quartered or cut in bite-sized pieces. Top with one small onion sliced. Salt and pepper each and dot with more more butter (generously).

Tightly fold the foil to enclose the vegetables, crimp the edges too.

Bake on a baking sheet in a preheated, moderate oven  350° for an hour. Open foil to taste and when done transfer each potion to to a plate. If you'd like, a dollop of sour cream goes nicely.

This could well convert parsnip haters.

CHINESE BEETS

I wrangled this recipe from an acquaintance who had contributed it to a pot luck supper. Only much

later did I see it in the Heloise column. You may serve it as a hot vegetable, or over steaming rice, the way the Chinese allegedly do it, or as a rather sweet and sour salad when chilled and topping some crisp lettuce cups.

• 3 cans beets
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 level tbps. cornstarch
• 1 cup of vinegar
• 1/4 tsp. ground cloves
• 3 tbsp. catchup
• 3 tbsp. cooking oil
• Dash of salt
• 1 tsp. vanilla
• 1 1/2 cups of beet juice

This makes a lot so you may want to halve or third it, but the leftovers keep well in the refrigerator.

In a large, shallow pan put in the sugar and cornstarch and mix well. Add vinegar, cloves, catchup, oil, salt, and vanilla. stir and mix well again.

Open the beets and add only 1 1/2 cups of the juice discarding the rest. Hopefully you've been able to buy diced beets. If not, the small whole beets are a must and even these should be halved or quartered to bit size.

Add beets to the pan and cook over medium heat three minutes, storing constantly until the mixture thins. Now it's up to you--hot as a vegetable, chilled in a salad, or anything else you may choose. A real treat!

STIR FRIED VEGETABLES AND SPROUTS

So often vegetables are overcooked which does nothing for nutrition. or taste.

Maureen Jones of the previously mentioned Sunny Green Gardens in Haverhill, MA has an answer with her method of stir frying with delicious results.

The whole family, and surely guests, too, should applaud this way with legumes (other veggies can be used).

• 2 medium carrots cut in thin strips
• 1 medium onion sliced thin
• 1 bunch broccoli, cut in small pieces
• 3 tbsp. oil
• 1/2 cup salad sprout mix
• 3/4 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. sugar
• 1 small can whole mushrooms

In s skillet cook carrots, onion, broccoli, sad sprouts in hot oil, stirring quickly and frequently. About four minutes.

Add salt, sugar and mushrooms with their liquid.

Cover and cook five minutes longer until vegetables are tender crisp, stirring occasionally.

Serves six deliciously.

 BAKED STUFFED SWEET POTATOES

First of all this deals with sweet potatoes and NOT yams. YELLOW sweet potatoes, not ORANGE

yams. And these are a lovely change from the usual baked stuffed white potato.

When you try them you'll see.

Bake two good-sized sweet potatoes. (allow 1/2 to 1 serving) in a preheated 400° oven for 40 minutes or until tender.

Halve the potatoes lengthwise, scoop out the pulpe but leave the shells intact.

Rice or mash the pulp to utter smoothness and combine it while still hot with 3 tbsp. softened butter and 1/3 cup heavy cream. Add 1/2 cup finely chopped ham and salt and pepper to taste.

Pile the filling back into the four shells and put in a buttered shallow baking dish. Bake ina preheated 425° oven for  10-15 mins. until they are very lightly browned. remember . . . on half potato per person.

ESCALLOPED CARROTS

• 3 cups cooked carrots cut in rounds
•  2 cups white sauce (packaged or make your own)
  
  
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
• Salt, pepper and Tabasco to taste
• 2/3 cup buttered crumbs

Combined cooked carrots, white sauce, add seasoning and place in well-buttered casserole. Top with crumbs and bake in a preheated 375° oven.

One more word about carrots, if you cut peeled carrots in sticks before boiling, draining and buttering you will think you've never had carrots before or such delicious carrots anyway. Don't know why.

Still another last word . . . chopped freshly peeled carrots rather finely, moisten with mayonnaise, add a dash of Tabasco and serve on lettuce as a nice crunchy and different salad.

TRIPLE TREAT VEGETABLE

Whether they're fresh from the garden or straight from the supermarket produce department, this treatment of a trio of vegetables is a step in the right direction. The direction, of course, being to elevate your vegetables from the ordinary to the extraordinary. Makes a goodly amount but you may want to vary the quantities of any or all of the three.

• 1 lb. fresh green beans
• 1 lb. summer squash,
• 1 lb. zucchni
• 1/3 cup oilive oil
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1/4 tsp. oregano (or to taste)
• Salt and pepper
• 2 drops Tabasco

Trim beans and cook in boiling, salted water to cover 8-10 minutes or until tender.

Drain and reserve.

Slice both kinds of squash thinly and saute in a large fry pan in the olive oil with the two garlic cloves for about 15 minutes or until tender.

Remove the garlic cloves and add the reserved beans.

Heat the the three vegetables together and season with the oregano, salt and pepper.